How many express packages have you opened recently? I can’t count. It’s really not surprising that the turnover of various shopping festivals can set records again and again. However, we may not realize that behind the carnival shopping, not only emptying our wallets, but also a large consumption of resources. Air pollution is caused by the transportation of goods; layers of packaging increase the burden of garbage disposal; clothes bought on impulse are idle for a long time…
To save the earth, we must first destroy fashion?
When “buying clothes” and “environmental protection” are put into the same context, I always think of a few years ago on Earth Day, an article denouncing jeans as not being environmentally friendly was forwarded wildly in social circles.
The main idea of the article was: “As long as you wear jeans, you are an accomplice in destroying the future of the earth.”
Regarding environmental protection, indeed everyone should pay more attention. However, the article insists that denim is the single most polluting item because “a lot of chemicals are used”, which is a bit “pseudoscience”. Not only denim (the raw material of denim is cotton), but all fabrics (raw materials including wool, silk, hemp, and polyester…) from yarn, to weaving into cloth, to producing garments, have to go through many processes, and many steps must be Some chemical treatments are used.
For example, bleached shirts, iron-free pants, water-repellent coated jackets, and UV-blocking umbrella cloths all undergo additional chemical treatments. The man-made fibers we know well, the raw materials of stockings, swimwear, and even school uniforms, are themselves the result of the synthesis of chemical substances. If jeans are guilty of being “chemically treated,” then all clothes are guilty. To save the planet, is it necessary to destroy fashion first?
How difficult is it for fashion brands to be truly environmentally friendly?
Zooming into various industries, the industrialized environment, the expanding real estate industry, the demand for electricity, etc., each of which is destroying the ecological balance of nature. The textile industry is indeed one of the industries that pollute the environment the most. It pollutes during manufacturing, pollutes during transportation, and pollutes when discarded.
As a result, with the increasing awareness of environmental protection, more and more fashion brands have begun to pay attention to the issue of “sustainability”. However, although the news of the brand’s statement in support of environmental protection is endless, it seems that there is no concrete progress.
For such news, you may have doubts in your heart: Are the environmental protection in the mouths of these brands just for the purpose of “absorbing fans” and “building an image”? Most people are “familiar” with environmental protection, which is to eliminate the discharge of waste gas and waste and stop polluting the air and water sources. Regarding this part, the textile industry has actually been trying to standardize it.
For example, the International Ecological Textile Research and Testing Association has a standard called Oeko-TexStandard 100, which is used to supervise the ecology of textiles and is basically updated every year. The newly added banned substances in 2019 include 2 kinds of extractable heavy metals, 1 kind of pesticides, 2 kinds of other residual chemicals, 4 kinds of banned dyes, 2 kinds of flame retardant products, 3 kinds of siloxanes, 14 kinds of nitrosamines and nitroso species and 1 phthalate. This standard is getting stricter and more perfect every year.
How many people don’t know is that in the environmental protection of the fashion industry, it is not enough to improve one link, the entire industry chain has to keep up:
- The first is logistics.
In a garment factory, if the locations of the factories are scattered and the factories for sewing garments and packaging are not next to each other, the transportation process between the factories will increase the carbon footprint; and even within the same factory, the machine’s The placement and erection of pipelines are very scattered, which will also increase the number of processes, and cannot form an energy-saving assembly line. To achieve an efficient and environmentally friendly production model, it is necessary to rationally plan the distribution and setup of factories.
- Package
In the case of brick-and-mortar retail, unnecessary overpackaging can be reduced and customers are encouraged to use eco-friendly bags. Displays in shopping malls, such as window props used to add holiday vibes, can be reused. From the perspective of sales, the data update of online stores and offline stores should be more timely, so as to facilitate the tracking and adjustment of production and avoid a large backlog of inventory becoming waste that is forced to be destroyed.
- Source
Designers can use some backlogs of slow-moving products and leftover scraps as raw materials to develop and design new products. In addition, in the design process, the subsequent production process requirements can also be considered in advance, and some more accurate instructions can be given to the craftsmen and manufacturers, so as to avoid transferring samples back and forth, saving production processes, and waste of materials.
In fact, the current research and development of environmentally friendly materials is still in a relatively initial stage, and cannot keep up with the speed of production and consumption of native items. Although the textile industry is already one of the most mature and stable industries, it takes a lot of money and time to develop a new fabric and make it really used and made into commodities. If there is no market demand and no real promotion, it will not be profitable, manufacturers need to bear all operational risks, and the project will be difficult to continue.
Although some materials have been successfully developed, they have no special advantages in terms of appearance or performance, and even there are many bugs in quality, and consumers may not choose to use them. Well, such a material also has no value for mass production.
Only by permeating all links from development to sales can real environmental protection be achieved. It takes a lot of time and financial resources to make an environmentally friendly product, but its influence can only be verified by a long-term approach. It is for this reason that we feel that the newspapers and media are talking about environmental protection every day, yet we have not seen any substantial changes.
However, consciously making changes to our living environment is still a positive attitude to be appreciated. And this positivity can always see some results.
Will recycled environmentally friendly fabrics look cheap?
To develop environmentally-friendly fabrics, you can start from different forms, such as biodegradable man-made fibers, improving dyes, choosing vegetable-tanned leather… The most important thing to turn waste into treasure is the recycled fabrics made from recycled items. More use of recycled materials to replace virgin materials to make clothing is bound to reduce the loss of nature to a certain extent. Like the recycled nylon bag recently launched by Prada, the ECONYL® material used is purified from recycled old carpets, salvaged discarded fishing nets and fishing gear, and leftover scraps from clothing.
Having said that, there is another question. In people’s concept, the essence of recycling is waste and garbage, which sounds very low-level. Luxury brands like Prada announce that they will use recycled fabrics to make their products, is it really possible? Interestingly, exploring the history of Prada, you will find that it is inextricably linked with nylon fabrics.
Nylon is a strong, wear-resistant, and lightweight material. After being invented in the 1920s, it immediately became a fabric with a high usage rate. It was most often made into industrial textiles, such as ropes and tires; it was also material for tents and parachutes during wartime. Although nylon is “popular”, its “rough and durable personality” has also made it a “low-end” fabric.
In 1984, Prada introduced the first black backpack made of nylon. As a luxury brand, Prada chose nylon, which is “not high-grade” fabric, which was a breakthrough at that time.
First, Prada has always been known in the fashion world for its bold use of unusual fabrics. The first nylon bag not only retains the wear-resistant, waterproof, and lightweight characteristics of nylon but also improves the rough and heavy industrial feel of nylon in the manufacturing method. The finely twisted weaving method, decorated with leather as a material, is more delicate and stylish both in feel and vision.
Secondly, under the leadership of the current designer Miuccia Prada, Prada has been popular since the 1980s, mainly because of its advanced design concept – actively exploring the relationship between people and the environment. The reason why Miuccia designed this nylon bag was that urban women at that time were in need of such a lightweight backpack, which elegantly freed their hands while holding all the objects.
After that, “Prada bag” has become a single product that fashionable people want to own. Prada’s nylon bags are still very popular today. It is Prada that introduced nylon material into the hall of high-end fashion.
At a time when the whole society is concerned about environmental protection, it is not surprising that Prada once again uses recycled nylon as a material to launch bags, because this is what they will do. At the same time, Prada also said that by the end of 2021, all virgin nylon classic products will be replaced with ECONYL®. People’s outdated impression of recycled materials will be subverted again. It should be mentioned that although ECONYL® is made from “garbage”, it can completely return to its original “clean” by depolymerizing and removing impurities. Its essence is no different from the raw material of any kind of raw textile, not “dirty”, “old”, or “unwanted”. In addition, it takes more time and money to make a new type of fabric through recycling and regeneration technology, while avoiding secondary pollution during processing, than virgin textiles with mature manufacturing processes. The cost price of environmentally friendly fabrics is actually higher than most ordinary fabrics.
Holding hands with environmental protection is the future of the fashion industry
To develop environmentally-friendly fabrics, you can start from different forms, such as biodegradable man-made fibers, improving dyes, choosing vegetable-tanned leather… The most important thing to turn waste into treasure is the recycled fabrics made from recycled items. More use of recycled materials to replace virgin materials to make clothing is bound to reduce the loss of nature to a certain extent. Like the recycled nylon bag recently launched by Prada, the ECONYL® material used is purified from recycled old carpets, salvaged discarded fishing nets and fishing gear, and leftover scraps from clothing.
Having said that, there is another question. In people’s concept, the essence of recycling is waste and garbage, which sounds very low-level. Luxury brands like Prada announce that they will use recycled fabrics to make their products, is it really possible? Interestingly, exploring the history of Prada, you will find that it is inextricably linked with nylon fabrics.
Nylon is a strong, wear-resistant, and lightweight material. After being invented in the 1920s, it immediately became a fabric with a high usage rate. It was most often made into industrial textiles, such as ropes and tires; it was also material for tents and parachutes during wartime. Although nylon is “popular”, its “rough and durable personality” has also made it a “low-end” fabric.
In 1984, Prada introduced the first black backpack made of nylon. As a luxury brand, Prada chose nylon, which is “not high-grade” fabric, which was a breakthrough at that time.
First, Prada has always been known in the fashion world for its bold use of unusual fabrics. The first nylon bag not only retains the wear-resistant, waterproof, and lightweight characteristics of nylon but also improves the rough and heavy industrial feel of nylon in the manufacturing method. The finely twisted weaving method, decorated with leather as a material, is more delicate and stylish both in feel and vision.
Secondly, under the leadership of the current designer Miuccia Prada, Prada has been popular since the 1980s, mainly because of its advanced design concept – actively exploring the relationship between people and the environment. The reason why Miuccia designed this nylon bag was that the urban women at that time we’re in need of such a lightweight backpack, which elegantly freed their hands while holding all the objects.
After that, “Prada bag” has become a single product that fashionable people want to own. Prada’s nylon bags are still very popular today. It is Prada that introduced nylon material into the hall of high-end fashion.
At a time when the whole society is concerned about environmental protection, it is not surprising that Prada once again uses recycled nylon as a material to launch bags, because this is what they will do. At the same time, Prada also said that by the end of 2021, all virgin nylon classic products will be replaced with ECONYL®. People’s outdated impression of recycled materials will be subverted again. It should be mentioned that although ECONYL® is made from “garbage”, it can completely return to its original “clean” by depolymerizing and removing impurities. Its essence is no different from the raw material of any kind of raw textile, not “dirty”, “old”, or “unwanted”. In addition, it takes more time and money to make a new type of fabric through recycling and regeneration technology, while avoiding secondary pollution during processing, than virgin textiles with mature manufacturing processes. The cost price of environmentally friendly fabrics is actually higher than most ordinary fabrics.
Holding hands with environmental protection is the future of the fashion industry
Regenerated nylon ECONYL® took 4 years from development to actual use. Its potential contribution to the environment looks staggering in estimates. According to data published by Prada, every 10,000 tons of ECONYL® produced saves 70,000 barrels of oil and reduces carbon dioxide emissions by 57,100 tons. Choose to use it and your impact on global warming can be reduced by 75%. Therefore, this time Prada’s use of recycled nylon makes the definition of fashion and even “luxury” more forward-looking, that is – “social responsibility”.
During the G7 summit held in France in 2019, 150 well-known brands also jointly signed a sustainability agreement “Fashion Compact”, which plans to achieve the goal of zero greenhouse gas emissions by 2050. If mature brands with high market shares can put environmental protection on the agenda, they will inevitably create demand and push the innovation of industry and technology to a new stage. In the “What We Carry” a short film by Prada and “National Geographic”, we were also pleasantly surprised to find that one of the raw materials used to make ECONYL® – the leftover leftovers from garment production, comes from Jinze Garment in Ganzhou, Jiangxi factory.
I always thought that the materialization of environmental protection still has a long way to go, but I didn’t expect it to be quietly infiltrating very close to us.
And “What We Carry” shows not only the process of collecting raw materials but also an excellent demonstration of not only solving local environmental problems but also assisting economic development. Take Osa Lake in Cameroon, Africa, for example, a large number of discarded fishing nets are deposited in the lake, which seriously damages the local ecosystem and greatly shrinks the aquatic resources that can be fished. The locals are now starting to salvage fishing nets, which can not only restore the ecology but also re-sell and recycle the fishing nets to increase their income.
Environmental protection and the fashion industry can coexist.
Don’t forget to do something for the planet while you’re on a shopping spree
That is not environmentally friendly as an exclamation and a wake-up call. However, can our contribution to environmental protection only stop there?
If a product is eco-friendly, it’s a plus in our hearts, but it’s probably not a must. We’re more likely to pay for something because it’s trendy, cheap, and convenient.
In the past few years, the development of the fashion industry has indeed become faster and faster, and the fashion cycle has changed from two seasons a year to new items every month or even every week, to “see now, buy now”.
But without buying and selling, there is no harm. Before criticizing the clothing industry or even any industry, we should reflect on our own shopping and living habits:
Is it possible to make the best use of every item purchased?
Can you try to avoid buying disposable, non-durable products and carry reusable bags when you go out?
Have you saved water, turned off lights, and given the greatest support to the natural environment within your ability?
What we want is not to act like an environmental fighter when forwarding the circle of friends, and to be extravagant and wasteful in our daily life. What we need is to carefully examine the resources we have around us and avoid excessive impulsive consumption.
We don’t have to stop consuming, but we must consume more consciously. Turn environmental awareness into our living habits! It will slowly change from something that sounds out of reach and only seen in the news to a small thing that everyone around us can do well.
